Modern cross-country motorbikes can take a lot of punishment and when used in normal conditions, offer very satisfactory levels of performance and reliability provided they are cared for and maintained properly. The extent of the strains put on them, especially in enduro racing, can vary significantly. Therefore a certain degree of preparation is always a good idea. In more extreme riding conditions, it is particularly advisable to optimise or adapt the certain aspects of the technology in preparation for this. The following tips based on years of experience in enduro racing should help KTM-EXC riders to overcome tough enduro conditions and better prepare for any problems. Preventive action is better than corrective action. Based on this philosophy, our tips will help ensure that the technology performs to the best of its abilities, giving you unbridled riding pleasure, whilst raking in all the off-road trophies.
These practical tips for committed enduro riders are based on the wealth of experience gained by KTM customer service representative Matthias Kumpf. The 36 year-old German, who has been showing his prowess as a rider in enduro events for more than 20 years, and is in charge of tech-nical organisation within the KTM support team for major cross-country events as the Six Days.
Dirty, wet or blocked air filters have a negative impact on engine performance. You should therefore check the foam filter element before every event and also when you stop for servicing. This should be cleaned or replaced where necessary. The air filter housing is open at the top. When riding through deep water or in muddy conditions, water, mud and dirt can get into the air filter via the seat or the tank. Therefore, the air filter must be checked regularly (every 30 minutes) and cleaned where necessary. It’s not by chance that experienced enduro riders always have a spare air filter in their bum bag or jacket pocket during events.
Check and clean the
air filter and repeat
this regularly
The inside of the rear mudguard on EXC Enduros is also the underside of the air filter housing. Apply a sliver of silicon from the outside around the edges (see arrows) and smear it flat with your finger. This prevents water from leaking through the gaps and stops particles of mud from getting into the air filter. If you remove the silencer, it is easier and less fiddly to apply silicon to the area.
Seal the edges of the
air filter housing
with silicon
Preparing for enduro races
in wet and muddy conditions
In rainy conditions or if you anticipate riding through water, a water shield should be fitted over the air filter element. This protective cover, which can be found in the ‘PowerParts’ accessories brochure (no. 5900602100), has a water-resistant coating. This prevents the air filter from filling up with water, ensuring that air gets to the engine and preventing power loss or breakdown. When fitting air filters with a rain shield, you should also check that they are fitted correctly (see Tip A 3). Reaching past the air filter to check the right-hand side is an essential step in this process. If it stops raining, the water shield can be detached quickly and easily. This can be cleaned with standard air filter cleaner so there is nothing stopping you from using it again.
Fit a water shield
for the air filter
The air filter is attached to KTM enduro bikes with a spring clip. This is functional, easy to use and reliable. When installing the filter element after a check, you must ensure that it is attached properly to the connector. To do this, reach past the air filter with your right hand and check whether the filter element is actually fitted flush and without any gaps. This check is important, especially when things get hectic at an event or time is running out. This is because The air filter cannot do its job if it is not fitted properly. If dirt or water gets in as a result, this can lead to power loss, worn-out piston rings or even engine damage.
When fitting the air filter,
check that it is
properly attached
Preparing for enduro races
in wet and muddy conditions
KTM supplies the two-stroke EXC and the four-stroke SXF models as stan-dard with aluminium sprockets. This is a good choice for a variety of terrains in dry conditions. However, we recommend that you exchange them for steel sprockets when riding on wet or muddy tracks. To be more precise, Stealth sprockets should be used with a steel sprocket chain riveted to an aluminium mount. This design is both highly wear-resistant and light. KTM bikes for the Sixdays competitions are supplied as standard with Stealth sprockets and these steel-aluminium components can be found in the ‘PowerParts’ accessories brochure in various different sizes.
Fit a
steel sprocket
Obviously, you need to buy jet nozzles and pins to calibrate your carburettor. You also need to carry out the necessary installation work. However, if you weigh up the cost and effort against the benefits, it is definitely worth it. Enduro bikes with the right carburettor calibration are more powerful and allow you to compete at a higher standard. They are also much more fun to ride. Finally, there is nothing more frustrating than a poorly calibrated enduro bike with no power.
I’m sorry but just ONE jet nozzle and ONE setting is not adequate for a souped-up competitive engine equipped with a carbu-rettor. This applies both to two-stroke and four-stroke engines - at least if you want the machine to perform to the best of its ability. Therefore, all power units must be calibrated so that their carburettor can cope with the conditions in which they are used. The main nozzle, pin position and idle nozzle should be chosen based on the alti-tude and temperature on location.
Carburettor calibration tips for KTM two-stroke enduro bikes can be found in the instruction manual. KTM dealers can provi-de lists of jet nozzles for four-stroke endu-ros. We advise you to go and see a dealer and gather information on carburettor set-tings for the various conditions encountered in scheduled events. Our dealers are very helpful with regard to these matters.
Choose the right
jet nozzle and settings
for the carburettor
Preparing for enduro races
in wet and muddy conditions
Wet or blocked air filters have a significant impact on engine performance. You should therefore check the foam filter element before every event and also when you stop for servicing. This should be cleaned or replaced where necessary.
The air filter housing is open at the top. When riding through water or in extreme conditions, water and dirt particles can get into the air filter via the seat or the tank. Therefore, the air filter must be checked regularly (every 30 minutes or at checkpoints) and cleaned where necessary. It’s no wonder that experienced enduro riders always have a spare air filter in their bum bag or jacket pocket during events.
Check and clean the
air filter and repeat
this regularly
The inside of the rear mudguard on EXC Enduros is also the underside of the air filter housing. Apply a sliver of silicon from the outside around the edges (see arrows) and smear it flat with your finger. This prevents snow or water from leaking through narrow gaps and stops particles of dirt from getting into the air filter and blocking it. If you remove the silencer, it is easier and less fiddly to apply silicon to this area as there is more room for manoeuvre.
Seal the edges of the
air filter housing
with silicon
Preparing for enduro races
in low temperatures or snow
In snowstorms, rainy conditions or if you anticipate riding through water, a water shield should be fitted over the air filter element. This protective cover, which can be found in the ‘PowerParts’ accessories brochure (no. 5900602100), has a water-resistant coating. This micropore cover which should be slightly oiled for optimal performance acts as an additional protective layer. It prevents the air filter from filling up with water, ensuring that air gets to the engine and preventing power loss or breakdown. When fitting air filters with a rain shield, it is crucial that you check that they are fitted correctly (see Tip B 3). Reaching past the air filter to check the right-hand side is an essential step in this process. If it stops snowing or raining, the water shield can be detached easily and quickly. It can be cleaned with air filter cleaner so there is nothing stopping you from using it again.
Fit a water shield
over the air filter
The air filter is attached to KTM enduro bikes with a spring clip. This is functional, easy to use and reliable. When fitting the filter element after a check you must ensure that the filter element is attached properly to the connector. To do this, reach past the air filter with your right hand and check whether the filter element is actually fitted flush and without any gaps. This check is important, especially when things get hectic at a pitstop or time is running out. This is because The air filter cannot do its job if it is not fitted properly. If snow or sludge gets in as a result, this can lead to power loss, prematurely worn-out piston rings or even engine damage.
When fitting the air filter,
check that it is
properly attached
Preparing for enduro races
in low temperatures or snow
Just ONE pump injector and ONE setting is not adequate for a
souped-up competitive engine equipped with a carburettor.
This applies both to two-stroke and four-stroke engines - at
least if you want the machine to perform to the best of its abi-
lity. Therefore, all power units must be calibrated so that their
carburettor can cope with the conditions in which they are used.
The main nozzle, pin position and idle nozzle should be chosen
based on the altitude and temperature at the place of use.
At low temperatures and in snow, a thicker (rather than thinner)
jet nozzle is preferable to prevent the carburettor from freezing.
Carburettor calibration tips for KTM two-stroke enduro bikes can
be found in the instruction manual. KTM dealers can provide lists
of jet nozzles for four-stroke enduros. We advise you to go and
see a dealer and gather information on carburettor settings for
the various conditions encountered in scheduled events. Our
dealers are very helpful with regard to these matters.
Obviously, you need to buy jet nozzles and pins to calibrate your
carburettor. You also need to carry out the necessary installation
work. However, if you weigh up the cost and effort against the benefits, it is definitely worth it. Enduro bikes with the right carburettor calibration are more powerful and allow you to compete at a higher standard. They are also much more fun to ride. Finally, there is nothing more frustrating than a poorly calibrated enduro bike with no power.
Adjust the carburettor jet nozzle and settings
Preparing for enduro races
in low temperatures or snow
Enduro racing on tough terrain is taxing for both rider and en-
gine. When riding on wet sand, you should check whether the
radiator cap on top reads 1.8 before setting off. This figure in-
dicates the opening pressure of the spring for the pressure re-
lief valve. Some models manufactured in certain years are fitted
with radiator cap covers with an opening pressure of 1.4. To be
on the safe side, when your bike is about to be put under ex-
treme strain, you should exchange this for a cover with opening
pressure of 1.8 bar. This applies to two-stroke and four-stroke
models. If a cover has been installed with a setpoint value which
is too low, the pressure relief valve will open early when under
extreme strain to prevent overboiling, which will cause the cool-
ant to evaporate and the engine may overheat with a whole
range of undesired effects. NB – DO NOT exchange the radia-
tor cap when the engine is still warm. The radiator, tubes and
all the cooling system components are all under pressure when
the engine is warm and the coolant will be very hot. There is a
high risk of scalding. You should therefore always leave the cool-
ing system to cool down before you work on it or exchange parts.
There is nevertheless a temptation, particularly when things are getting heated during a competition, to carry out work on the cooling system while the power unit is warm. It is better to wait a while and carry out any work with all due care and attention. If, despite this, you still scald yourself, you should put your hand under lukewarm water.
Check the radiator cap cover against the
setpoint value and change if necessary
Preparing for enduro racing
on wet sand
Wet or blocked air filters adversely affect engine performance. You should therefore regularly check the rubber foam filter element. This should be cleaned or replaced where necessary. The air filter housing is open at the top. When riding through water or wet sand, water and sand can get into the air filter via the seat or the tank. Therefore, the air filter must be checked regularly (every 30 minutes) and cleaned where necessary. It’s not by chance that experienced enduro riders always have a spare air filter in their bum bag or jacket pocket during events.
Check and clean the air filter
and repeat this
regularly
The inside of the rear mudguard on EXC Enduros is also the underside of the air filter housing. Apply a sliver of silicon from the outside around the edges (see arrows in the picture) and smear it flat with your finger. This prevents moisture or wet sand from infiltrating the gaps and stops particles from getting into the air filter and blocking it. If you remove the silencer, it is easier and less fiddly to apply silicon to the area as there is more room for manoeuvre.
Seal the edges of the
air filter housing
with silicon
Preparing for enduro racing
on wet sand
In rainy conditions or on sandy terrain, a water shield should be installed over the air filter element. This protective cover, which can be found in the ‘PowerParts’ accessories brochure (no. 5900602100), has a water-resistant coating. It prevents the air filter from filling up with water, thus ensuring that air gets to the engine and preventing power loss or breakdown. When installing air filters with a rain shield, you should also check that they are attached correctly (see Tip 3). You should always reach past the air filter to check the right-hand side. When you have finished riding on wet sand, the water shield can be detached. It can be cleaned with air filter cleaner so there is nothing stopping you from using it again.
Fit a water shield
for the air filter
The air filter is attached to KTM enduro bikes with a spring clip. This is functional, easy to use and reliable. When fitting the filter element after a check you must ensure that the filter element is attached properly to the connector. To do this, reach past the air filter with your right hand and check whether the filter element is actually fitted flush and without any gaps. This check is very important, especially when things get hectic at an event or time is running out. The air filter cannot do its job if it is not fitted properly. If water or sand gets in as a result, this can lead to power loss, prematurely worn-out piston rings or even engine damage.
When fitting the air filter,
check that it is
properly attached
Preparing for enduro racing
on wet sand
When riding on sandy subsoil where the drive wheel spins a lot,
the strain put on the engine is significantly increased. Therefore,
for both two-stroke and four-stroke engines, we particularly re-
commend that you calibrate your carburettor carefully. To en-
sure optimal performance, all power units must be calibrated
so that their carburettor can cope with the conditions in which
they are used. When riding on wet sand, the main nozzle, pin
position and idle nozzle should be chosen and fitted based on
the altitude and temperature at the place of use. Carburettor ca-
libration tips for KTM two-stroke enduro bikes can be found in
the instruction manual. KTM dealers can provide lists of jet noz-
zles for four-stroke enduros. We advise you to go and see a
dealer and gather information on carburettor settings for the va-
rious conditions encountered in scheduled events. Our dealers
are very helpful with regard to these matters. Obviously, you
need to buy jet nozzles and pins to calibrate your carburettor.
You also need to carry out the necessary installation work.
How ever, if you weigh up the cost and effort against the bene-
fits, it is definitely worth it. Enduro bikes with the right carburettor calibration are more powerful and allow you to compete at a higher standard. They are also much more fun to ride. Finally, there is nothing more frustrating than a poorly calibrated enduro bike with no power.
Adjusting the carburettor jet nozzle
and settings for the conditions
Preparing for enduro racing
on wet sand
Before setting off to ride on wet sand, do not oil the drive chain. On the contrary, this should be cleaned and degreased, ideally with chain cleaner. Chain oil picks up grains of sand and binds them together with a similar effect to sandpaper. If you oil your chain before riding in sandy conditions, you will seriously reduce its lifespan. You therefore risk the chain wearing out in a very short space of time. Do not use brake cleaner to clean your chain as this will corrode the O-Rings. Ideally, you should spray chain cleaner on it and wipe the chain with a dry cloth. Under no circumstances should you carry out this procedure when the engine is running and the bike is in gear as this may result in serious injury. Just turn the wheel by hand to allow the chain to move round.
KTM supplies the two-stroke EXC and
the four-stroke SXF models as standard
with aluminium sprockets. This is a
good choice for many terrain types in
dry conditions. However, we recommend
that you exchange these for steel spro-
ckets when riding on wet sand. To be
more precise, Stealth sprockets should
be used with a steel sprocket chain rive-
ted to an aluminium mount. This design
is both highly wear-resistant and light.
KTM bikes for the Sixdays competitions
are supplied as standard with Stealth
sprockets and these steel-aluminium
components can be found in the
‘PowerParts’ accessories brochure in va-
rious different sizes.
Pure aluminium sprockets are not suitable for wet sand as they suffer a very high degree of wear under these conditions. The gears wear down incredibly quickly and in extreme cases, the chain can fly off. Steel sprockets are the best solution for these conditions in combination with X or O-Ring chains. It goes without saying that the right chain tension must always be maintained.
Cleaning and
degreasing
the chain
Install a steel sprocket
Preparing for enduro racing
on wet sand
Enduro racing on tough terrain is taxing for both rider and en-
gine. When riding in high temperatures, slow conditions (on
difficult terrain) and dry sand, you should check that the radia-
tor cap on top reads 1.8 before setting off. This figure indicates
the opening pressure of the spring for the pressure relief valve.
Some models manufactured in certain years are fitted with ra-
diator cap covers with an opening pressure of 1.4. To be on the
safeside, when your bike is about to be put under extreme
strain in dry, sandy conditions, you should exchange this for a
cover with an opening pressure of 1.8 bar. This applies to two-
stroke and four-stroke models. If a cover has been installed with
a setpoint value which is too low, the pressure relief valve will
open early when under extreme strain to prevent overboiling,
which will cause the coolant to evaporate and the engine may
overheat with a whole range of undesired effects.
NB – DO NOT replace the radiator cap when the engine is still
warm. The radiator, tubes and all the cooling system compo-
nents are all under pressure when the engine is warm and the
coolant will be very hot. There is a high risk of scalding. You should therefore always leave the cooling system to cool down before you work on it or exchange parts. There is nevertheless a temptation, particularly when things are getting heated during a competition, to carry out work on the cooling system while the power unit is warm. It is better to wait a while and carry out any work with due care and attention. If, despite this, you still scald yourself, you should put your hand under lukewarm water.
Check the radiator cap cover against the
setpoint value and change if necessary
Preparing for enduro racing
on dry sand
Air filters blocked up with sand can affect engine performance. You should therefore regularly check the foam filter element when you stop for servicing. This should be cleaned or replaced where necessary.
The air filter housing is open at the top. When riding long distances in sandy conditions, sand can get into the air filter via the seat or the tank. Therefore, the air filter must be checked regularly (every 30 minutes) and cleaned where necessary. It’s not by chance that experienced enduro riders always have a spare air filter in their bum bag or jacket pocket during events.
Check and clean the air
filter and repeat
this regularly
The inside of the rear mudguard on EXC Enduros is also the underside of the air filter housing. Apply a sliver of silicon from the outside around the edges (see arrows in the picture) and smear it flat with your finger. This will prevent fine sand from infiltrating any narrow gaps or from getting into the air filter and blocking it. If you remove the silencer, it is easier and less fiddly to apply silicon to this area if there is not much space as this gives you extra room for manoeuvre.
Seal the edges of the
air filter housing
with silicon
Preparing for enduro racing
on dry sand
In dusty and sandy conditions, a sand
and dust shield should be fitted over
the air filter element. This two-piece
cover from the ‘PowerParts’ accessories
brochure (no. 590.06.019.00) also in-
cludes a fine-pored special fabric. This
prevents the air filter from clogging,
thus ensuring that air gets to the en-
gine and preventing power loss or
breakdown in real-life situations. When
installing air filters with a sand/dust
shield, you should also check that they
are attached correctly (see Tip 3). You
should always reach past the air filter to check the right-hand side. Once you have completed the sandy and/or dusty stages of a race, you can detach the dust and sand cover. After cleaning, there is nothing stopping you from using it again.
In mechanical terms, insufficient air filtering in extremely dusty and sandy conditions often results in the piston rings wearing down prematurely, which can lead to power loss and high oil consumption. For example, at the Sixdays 2008 in Greece, KTM support staff advised participants to fit this type of dust and sand shield. The result was positive – no KTM riders suffered dust damage!
Fit a dust and sand shield
for the air filter
The air filter is attached to KTM enduro bikes with a spring clip. This is functional, easy to use and reliable. When fitting the filter element after a check you must ensure that the filter element is attached properly to the connector. To do this, reach past the air filter with your right hand and check whether the filter element is actually fitted flush and without any gaps. This check is very important, especially when things get hectic at an event or time is running out. The air filter cannot do its job if it is not fitted properly. If sand or particles of dirt get in as a result, this can lead to a loss in performance, prematurely worn-out piston rings or even engine damage.
When fitting the air filter,
check that it is
properly attached
Preparing for enduro racing
on dry sand
When riding on sandy subsoil where the drive wheel spins a lot,
the strain put on the engine is significantly increased. Therefore,
for both two-stroke and four-stroke engines, it is particularly im-
portant that you calibrate your carburettor carefully. To ensure
optimal performance, all power units must be calibrated so that
their carburettor can cope with the conditions in which they are
used. When riding in sandy conditions, the main nozzle, pin
position and idle nozzle should be chosen and fitted based on
the altitude and temperature at the place of use. Carburettor
calibration tips for KTM two-stroke enduro bikes can be found
in the instruction manual. Authorised KTM dealers can provide
lists of jet nozzles for four-stroke enduros. We advise you to go
and see a dealer and gather information on carburettor settings
for the various conditions encountered in scheduled events. Our
dealers are very helpful with regard to these matters.
Obviously, you need to buy jet nozzles and pins to calibrate your
carburettor. You also need to carry out the necessary installation
work. However, if you weigh up the cost and effort against the
benefits, it is definitely worth it. Enduro bikes with the right carburettor calibration are more powerful and allow you to compete at a higher standard. They are also much more fun to ride. Finally, there is nothing more frustrating than a poorly calibrated enduro bike with no power.
Calibrate the carburettor
jet nozzle and settings
Preparing for enduro racing
on dry sand
Before setting off to ride on dry sand, do not oil the drive chain. On the contrary, this should be cleaned and degreased, ideally with chain cleaner. Chain oil picks up grains of sand and binds them together with a similar effect to sandpaper. If you oil your chain before riding in sandy conditions, you will seriously reduce its lifespan. You therefore risk the chain wearing out in a very short space of time. Do not use brake cleaner to clean your chain as this will corrode the O-Rings. Ideally, you should spray chain cleaner on it and wipe the chain with a dry cloth. Under no circumstances should you carry out this procedure when the engine is running and the bike is in gear as this may result in serious injury. Just turn the wheel by hand to allow the chain to move round.
Cleaning and
degreasing the chain
KTM supplies the two-stroke EXC and
the four-stroke SXF models as standard
with aluminium sprockets. This is a
good choice for a variety of terrains in
dry conditions. When riding on sandy
topsoil however, we recommend ex-
changing it for a steel sprocket. To be
more precise, Stealth sprockets should
be used with a steel sprocket chain ri-
veted to an aluminium mount. This de-
sign is both highly wear-resistant and
ultra-light. KTM bikes for the Sixdays
competitions are supplied as standard
with Stealth sprockets and these steel-
aluminium components can be found in the ‘PowerParts’ accessories brochure in various different sizes.
Pure aluminium sprockets are not suitable for sand as they suffer a very high degree of wear under these conditions. The gears wear down incredibly quickly and in extreme cases, the chain can fly off.
Steel sprockets are the best solution for sandy conditions in combination with X or O-Ring chains. It hopefully goes without saying that the right chain tension must always be maintained.
Install a
steel sprocket
Preparing for enduro racing
on dry sand
There is nevertheless a temptation, particularly when things are getting heated during a competition, to carry out work on the cooling system while the power unit is warm. It is better to wait a while and carry out any work due care and attention using protective gloves or work gloves. If, despite this, you still scald yourself, you should put your hand under lukewarm water.
Some enduro events take place on challenging terrain. For ex-
ample, “Hell’s Gate” and the “Elchioco” in Tuscany, Italy involve
a relentless uphill climb. In races where you are mainly riding
slowly in high temperatures (over 25°C), your bike will be put
under increased strain. Therefore, when taking on challenging
events and tough terrain, you should firstly check the coolant
well before setting off and secondly ensure that the radiator cap
on top reads 1.8. This figure indicates the opening pressure of
the spring for the pressure relief valve. Some models manufac-
tured in certain years are fitted with radiator cap covers with an
opening pressure of 1.4. These should be exchanged for a cover
with an opening pressure of 1.8 bar before putting your bike un-
der the strain of riding slowly in high temperatures. This applies
to two-stroke and four-stroke models. If a cover has been instal-
led with a setpoint value which is too low, the pressure relief val-
ve will open early when under extreme strain to prevent overboi-
ling, which will cause the coolant to evaporate and the engine
may overheat with a whole range of undesired effects.
NB – DO NOT replace the radiator cap when the engine is still
warm. The radiator, tubes and all the cooling system components are all under pressure when the engine is warm and the coolant will be very hot. There is a high risk of scalding. You should therefore always leave the cooling system to cool down before you work on it or exchange parts.
Check the radiator cap cover against
the setpoint value and change if necessary
Preparing for enduro racing
in high temperatures and slow conditions
Air filters blocked with dust and dirt seriously affect engine performance. Therefore, in hot conditions and for events with a high level of dust build-up, we recommend checking and testing your foam filter element (approx. every 30 minutes) and cleaning or replacing it where necessary, a process which should also be repeated when you stop for servicing. For good reason, experienced enduro riders always have a spare air filter in their bum bag or jacket pocket during events.
Check and clean the
air filter and repeat
this regularly
The inside of the rear mudguard on EXC Enduros is also the underside of the air filter housing. Apply a sliver of silicon from the outside around the edges (see arrows) and smear it flat with your finger. This prevents sand and dust from infiltrating the gaps or getting into the air filter and blocking it. If you remove the silencer, it is easier and less fiddly to apply silicon to the area even if there is not much space as this gives you extra room for manoeuvre.
Seal the edges of the
air filter housing
with silicon
Preparing for enduro racing
in high temperatures and slow conditions
You can ensure that the engine per-
forms well by adjusting the transmis-
sion ratio to suit the track type. As a
rule of thumb, a shorter transmission
ratio should be selected for slower
tracks. The engine oil heats up quick-
ly if the clutch is applied frequently on
slow tracks (or as a result of an exces-
sively long secondary transmission ra-
tio). Therefore it is definitely worth con-
sidering changing the oil more regularly.
Only 0.6 litres of engine oil and 0.9 li-
tres of gear oil circulate around the en-
gine of the KTM 450 for example.
In tough conditions, experienced enduro racers are not afraid to change their oil en route. In the Sixdays competitions during which riders ride 200 to 300km per day, they generally change their oil every two days. Many racers trust their instincts and change their oil after a particularly hard day of racing. This is recommended. Enduro riders should simply be aware that, as a result of the terrain, conditions and their own driving style, their equipment may in fact be put under a great deal of strain. We therefore always recommend giving some serious thought to maintenance work and carrying it out carefully, taking the necessary precautions.
Adjust the secondary transmission
ratio for the track type
The air filter is attached to KTM enduro bikes with a spring clip. This is functional, easy to use and reliable. When fitting the filter element after a check you must ensure that the filter element is attached properly to the connector. To do this, reach past the air filter with your right hand and check whether the filter element is actually fitted flush and without any gaps. This check is very important, especially when things get hectic at an event or time is running out. The air filter cannot do its job if it is not fitted properly. If dust or other dirt particles get in as a result, this can lead to a loss in performance, prematurely worn-out piston rings or even engine damage.
When fitting the air filter,
check that it is
properly attached
Preparing for enduro racing
in high temperatures and slow conditions
Before setting off to ride in very hot and dusty conditions, you should clean the drive chain (ideally with chain cleaner), grease it sparingly with chain spray and give this sufficient time to evaporate.
Do not use brake cleaner to clean your chain as this will corrode the O-Rings. Ideally, you should spray chain cleaner on it and wipe the chain with a dry cloth. Under no circumstances should you carry out this procedure when the engine is running and the bike is in gear as this may result in serious injury. Just turn the wheel by hand to allow the chain to move round.
In high temperatures, it is not a good idea to oil the drive chain en route on the day of the race, without first cleaning it. The cleaner will pick up grains of dust and bind them together with a similar effect to sandpaper. You therefore risk the chain wearing out in a very short space of time.
Cleaning and degreasing
the chain
Preparing for enduro racing
in high temperatures and slow conditions
As part of routine maintenance, the spokes must be checked to ensure they are at the right tension. Loose or unfastened spokes must be retightened. This can either be done based on feel with a suitable spanner or with a spoke torque spanner which is the easier method. If you fail to check your spokes, you will quickly find yourself with broken spokes, pierced pipes or misshapen wheels. This is can not only become dangerous (or at least uncomfortable) but also result in a hefty repairs bill, not to mention missed opportunities for sporting success.
Check the tension
of the spokes
As part of routine maintenance before starting a race, you should check that the clamping bolts for the sprockets are firmly attached. When changing sprockets, Loctite should be applied to the bolted connections (or a similar securing agent – firm or medium firm) and the recommended torque should be applied when tightening these. In enduro racing, the sprocket fastenings in particular are put under enormous strain and therefore these bolts must be checked regularly.
Check that the sprocket
clamping bolts
are firmly fastened
Practical tips for
all track types and conditions
It goes without saying that you should give your off-road bike a good clean after an event or a long ride.
Clean your motorbike
regularly
It can’t hurt to have a look at the radiator(s). If necessary, unscrew the radiator guard and clean any dirt from the cooling fins. It’s just common sense – a clogged up radiator cannot do its job properly. Cleaning helps to prevent overheating and protects against power loss and, in extreme cases, even engine damage. Straightening bent cooling fins is a delicate matter and not a great idea when you are the thick of things at an event, especially since they are built into the bike and therefore inaccessible. Most people dismantle their cooling blades in more relaxed circumstances at home and then straighten them with a screwdriver or a thin pair of pliers. There is nothing wrong with this. However, depending on the extent of damage to the radiator, it is often easier or at least less effort simply to fit a new radiator.
Clean any dirt
from the radiator
All enduro racers know that mud and dirt can accumulate inside the mudguard. Depending on the consistency of the muck, a motorbike can become 3 kilos heavier (!) and wheel clearance is also reduced. The best way to prevent this is to apply silicon spray to the inside of the front and rear mudguards. The dirt and muck not only falls off more easily but it is also much easier to clean the mudguards afterwards.
Apply silicon spray
to the inside of
the mudguard
Practical tips for
all track types and conditions
